The Care Guide

Light is the single biggest factor in whether your tree thrives or merely survives. A bonsai in good light will use water faster, grow denser and resist pests. There is no fertiliser that fixes a dark corner.

• Indoor trees want a bright window, ideally east or west, with 4–6 hours of direct or filtered sun. Rotate the pot a quarter turn every fortnight so the tree doesn't lean.
• Outdoor trees need real sun and real weather. A balcony, a sheltered garden bench or a bright windowsill that opens works well. If the tree came from us as outdoor stock, it stays outdoors.
• Air conditioning dries leaves far faster than people expect. Keep trees clear of direct vents, and away from radiators in the cooler months.

Forget schedules. Water when the tree is thirsty, and check with your finger before you pour. Two centimetres into the soil: if it's dry, water until it runs freely from the drainage holes.

• Water thoroughly, not little and often. A shallow splash only wets the surface and encourages weak roots.
• Morning is kindest. Leaves dry through the day, which keeps fungal problems away.
• Rainwater or rested tap water if you can. If not, tap water is fine — don't overthink it.
• Never let a pot sit in water. Empty the saucer ten minutes after watering.

Bonsai soil is coarse on purpose: it drains fast and holds air around the roots. Most of our trees are in a mix of akadama, pumice and a little lava rock. Repot every two to three years for young trees, longer for older ones.

• Best window: late winter to early spring, just as buds begin to swell and before leaves open.
• Trim the roots, don't just move the tree. Take roughly a third, keeping the fine feeder roots.
• Shade for a week afterwards and hold off fertiliser for about four weeks while new roots form.

A tree in a small pot exhausts its soil quickly. We feed lightly and often through the growing season, and not at all in the depths of winter or the first month after repotting.

• Growing season: a balanced liquid feed every two weeks, diluted to half strength.
• Flowering species appreciate a little more potassium as buds form.
• Too much looks like long, pale, floppy growth and crusty soil. Flush the pot with water and skip a month.

Shaping is a conversation between you and the tree, and you only get one vote per season. Work slowly, step back often, and remove less than you think you should.

• Structural pruning in late winter while the tree is dormant and you can see the shape.
• Pinching soft new shoots through summer keeps foliage pads tight.
• Wiring sets a branch in one to three seasons. Check monthly; if it bites the bark, remove and reapply next year.

A rough rhythm for a tropical indoor tree. Outdoor and temperate species shift a month or two either way.

• Yellow, dropping leavesUsually too much water, or a cold draught. Check drainage, then move the tree somewhere brighter and less breezy.
• Crisp brown leaf edgesToo dry, or sitting in an air-conditioned draft. Water thoroughly and raise humidity with a tray of pebbles and water nearby.
• Long pale shootsReaching for light. Move closer to the window and rotate the pot weekly.
• Sticky residue or webbingAphids or spider mite. Wash the foliage, isolate the tree, and treat with insecticidal soap weekly for three weeks.
• Nothing happensSometimes a tree is simply resting. If the bark is firm and green beneath, it is alive. Be patient.

Live plants need planning, so we ship Monday to Wednesday only. That way nothing sits in a depot over a weekend.

• Metro Manila: next-day courier, flat ₱180. Free over ₱5,000.
• Provincial: two to four days, from ₱320 depending on island.
• Live arrival guarantee. If a tree arrives damaged, send us a photo within 24 hours and we will replace it or refund you.
• Change of heart: unopened, healthy trees can come back within seven days, minus shipping.